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The Venturist will be ready for delivery in 2019. We have every intention to show the Venturist and other (upcoming) watches of our collection. We are working on plans to exhibit at fairs and trade-shows. When and how depends on the progress of our ‘become a shareholder’ campaign.
At 44mm in diameter, this is no shrinking violet, but would you really want a Panerai that was? With its affordable price tag and uncompromisingly classic design, this would make an ideal first Panerai. But be careful, once you dip your toes into Panerai’s azure waters, you may find yourself amassing a small army of water-resistant luminous watches with only minor design differences.
In stark contrast to the dainty and fanciful Jupiter, we find the worn black-plated case of an « Army » brand field watch that is hanging on to its strap with a single long-suffering spring bar. The velcro strap proudly reads « Sport Watch » in a manner similar to how that one uncle likes to tell you about how good he was at football. You know, before « the knee. »
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Watches on offer in an auction from our August 16, 2024 edition all found new wrists to call home. In terms of results, highlights were the Heuer Camaro with a Champion dial selling for $11,025 on eBay and the Habring² Chrono-Felix for Shellman selling for $11,055. I hope at least a few of the new owners are Hodinkee readers and BAL enthusiasts!
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Perhaps there is always an exception to the rule and here enters this humble Hamilton alarm wristwatch. I love the simplicity of this steel-cased alarm wristwatch. This is a « beep » I can get behind. When it comes to alarm wristwatches, the most notable ones are the Vulcain Crickets and the Jaeger-LeCoultre/LeCoultre Memovox. This is the first time we are offering an alarm wristwatch by Hamilton in the HODINKEE Shop, so you know it’s quite rare.
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Price, whether it was for sale – all those kinds of things weren’t shared in the press release. I can’t afford it and I don’t even want to know what it cost. Part of me thinks whatever they asked wasn’t enough for this piece of art. Congrats to the Parmigiani Fleurier team for this achievement.
Brand: OrisModel: Divers Sixty-Five « Bico »Reference Number: 01 733 7707 4355 Diameter: 40mmCase Material: Steel and bronzeDial Color: BlueIndexes: Rose gold PVDLume: Super-LumiNovaWater Resistance: 100 metersStrap/Bracelet: Steel and bronze bracelet or brown leather strap
We’ve saved a classic for last by way of the Seamaster 300M GMT 50th Anniversary edition. The name somewhat says it all. In 1998, on the 50th anniversary of the Seamaster range, Omega released a travel-ready iteration of its Seamaster 300m using a design that many today wish the brand would bring back, with the sword-hand motif. Here we get a vintage-meets-modern design that turns the diver into a GMT in a way that isn’t derivative and that stands up quite nicely a quarter-century later.
In this year’s Hodinkee Holiday Gift Guides, we’re featuring special guests with their top gift picks across a range of price points from our very own Hodinkee Shop and beyond. No matter who you’re shopping for this season, we’ve got you covered. This Gift Guide features jewelry designer Maggi Simpkins, who has run her bespoke engagement ring company since 2015. She recently designed a one-million-dollar ring for « Brilliant and Black – A Jewelry Renaissance, » an exhibition at Sotheby’s.
As an expression of Kirk Jewelers’ philosophy, we chose the word genuine to best represent what we’re about. Genuine embodies the unwavering business ethics and our focus on providing the highest level of client service. Genuine reflects the passion deeply ingrained in our family’s tradition as well as signifying that we only offer authentic, factory-backed watches and jewelry.
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I’ll admit I’ve never particularly been entranced by the concept of a solid-gold Rolex myself, but realizing the level of depth and diversity the Day-Date has to offer has me reconsidering the collection as a whole. I mean, seriously, how cool would it be to rock a Day-Date with an ammonite dial? To me, a watch like that speaks an entirely different language than what I’m used to hearing from Rolex – one that’s fun, playful, and stylish.
Almost unsurprisingly, this rectangular beauty is being offered for sale by a French seller in Marseille. In other words, French people have good taste. The ask is a reasonable €1200, though again, the option to make an offer is also there.
The watches were indeed real, but there was a catch. They were only available in China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. Oris had quietly released 1,300 examples of the Stormtrooper Aquis and 240 of the Darth Vader Prodiver models in April to the so-called « Greater China » market. The Darth Vader watch couldn’t be purchased outside of a « Dark Side » set of both watches.
Thankfully, Audemars Piguet knew it was on to something good and continued to support its oddball Royal Oak, which would slowly gain popularity over the next few years. As Genta highlighted in the above quote, the Royal Oak would soon define an entire subset of high-end steel sports watches. Other brands, including Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, took note and developed their own competition, with Patek Philippe even going so far as to hire Genta to design their Nautilus.
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Thanks to the following sources for sharing their research and help with the story: Ethan Lipsig, Georges-Henri and Edouard Meylan, Stephen Foskett, Yang Shiming, Antonios Vassiliadis and Hans Weil, the auction houses of Bonhams and Sotheby’s, and the authors of NAWCC Bulletins throughout the years.
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Visible through the Seiko 5-usual display caseback, the new Seiko 4R34 offers a caller-style GMT function linked to a large red 24-hour hand that is controlled via the first position on the crown (one way is the date, the other is GMT). Ticking at 21,700 vph, this 24 jewel movement has ~40 hours of power reserve and stems from Seiko’s long-standing 4R movement series, which is known to be robust, but not exceptional in terms of accuracy, with Seiko listing the 4R34 at -35/+45 seconds per day.
Xhevdet wasn’t born into watchmaking. In 1998, he came to Switzerland from Kosovo, along with his brother and sister. After finishing school, he began an apprenticeship as a cabinetmaker, but he wanted a trade that allowed him to pursue more creative projects.
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Personally, I am half-heartedly after an ADANAC diver from the 1980s. With a case similar to the Benrus types we love to offer, the ADANAC is quartz, made by Gallet, and can normally be found for right under $1,000. There go my chances of scoring one for a deal on eBay.
I have always thought that there is something uniquely beautiful about the compensation balance. It turns the watch, which has so often seemed to so many to have a kind of mechanical life, into an organism sensitive to changes in its environment, in dynamic equilibrium (more or less) with the larger world.
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I finally found a bagel shop and ordered a cappuccino. The store sold chocolate-chip bagels, and the cappuccino was god-awful, but I swallowed my medicine wondering how anyone who regularly saw Mont Blanc could make a bad cup of coffee.
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Below, you can see the new Sub 200t (a silver Searambler example) compared directly against the already thin and very wearable Sub 300. Yes, a Sub 300T would make a more direct comparison, but they had a 300 on the table at my meeting in Geneva, so that’s what I got. The case is thinner, sure, but look at how much shorter it is lug-to-lug while not sacrificing the bulk that helps to cement a dress watch on your wrist.
Roughly a year ago, MB&F released the HM9, a horological expression meant to pay respect to the iconic designs of automobiles and aircraft from the 1940s and ’50s. Today the same watch is re-released in 18k 5N+ red gold, and it’s aptly called the HM9 « Flow » Red Gold.
With Citizen’s re-release of the Promaster Dive « Orca » earlier this year, I finally got a chance to check out one of those forum fan-favorites, one of the chonky boys of the early-to-mid-aughts that I wouldn’t have previously sought out on the used market.
Watches like the aforementioned Doxa wear smaller than you’d expect as their lug to lug distance is not much longer than the case width. Similarly, the 41mm Tudor Black Bay GMT feels vastly larger on wrist than this Sinn U50, and that’s because the Black Bay is quite a bit thicker at 14.75mm (it’s also some 5% longer in terms of the case width/length ratio). If you only considered the width, you’d have no ability to predict how differently the two watches wear in real life.
Rich, Tony, and Sarah are all very tough acts to follow, as they have very intentional and curated tastes. I realized in putting this together that my choices are all over the map, and that sitting down and building a collection all at once forced me to think in a balanced way about blowing through all that cash. It shifted my perspective.
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Let me start by telling you this is a crazy watch, in a very positive way. Maximilian Busser and friends (in this case Alain Silberstein, Kari Voutilainen and Eric Giroud amongst others) introduced this Legacy Machine version ‘LM1 Silberstein’ today.
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Hodinkee has teamed up with Huckberry and their 3rd Annual Grail Gift Giveaway to give away one of the most intrepid sports watches of all time — a 36mm Rolex Explorer 124270. Click here for more details. To celebrate this partnership, we’re republishing this story from September 2021.
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With its collection inspired by an eponymous line born in 1902, which now embodies a new horizon, Zenith has succeeded in offering timepieces that combine contemporary design with a versatile personality.
And the Overseas is not alone, as the brand is also revealing two more retrograde-equipped models this week: the 41mm pink gold Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface and the 42.5mm platinum Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date. Stay tuned for more on both.
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On paper, the Benthos Heritage II offers a lot for under $1,500 and has evolved into a watch that appeals to me on many levels, offering vintage style, modern quality, and a great design in a wearable do-it-all diver.
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Thanks to Sotheby’s for their extensive notes on each of these lots; the auction catalog is not yet online but we’ll update our coverage as soon as it becomes available. For more information about the auction, see the announcement from Sotheby’s. Visit the Museum Of Islamic Art for more info on the Salomons Breguet collection and other exhibits, right here.
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If you take the whole watch into consideration, there is only little that correspond with the original CK2915 Speedmaster from 1957, except for some design elements (straight lugs, no crown-guard, Base 1000 bezel, applied logo on the dial).
The Aqua Terra’s dials look extremely luxurious up close. The finishing is superb, and the applied details add visual interest. I have spent time with several of these, and they never ceased to inspire and dazzle me.
With the attention to design and detail, the watch gives up nothing in function. It features shock resistance and a generous application of Super-LumiNova. The watch is a confluence of modern design and classic watchmaking techniques that builds upon the existing design heritage of the brand itself. This watch comes on a blue hand-sewn Hornback crocodile leather strap and is limited to 50 pieces.
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Highlighting competition is one of my favorite parts of writing about watches, but I just have trouble imagining someone trying to cross-shop between $105,000 for a titanium Bulldog ($120,000 for the red gold) and anything else. What else is on this list? Normal, non-dog themed watches? I mean, this is not a bad problem to have (and I want to see that list), but there are some watches you just want in a vacuum, and I figure that is how people get into a brand like MB&F.
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Each of the three watches features one of the team’s three colours around the watch rim, on the figures and the indices: yellow for the platinum version, red for the 3D carbon model and black for the sapphire watch.
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The seconds are displayed in a special counter set at 6 o’clock, largely inspired by the egg timer, this rounded sun-shaped timer which appears on mobile phone screens whenever an update or app loading has ended.
Discos Havana and Verde use Old Radium SuperLumiNova to match their old-school vibe, while the blue Celeste uses extra-powerful white BGW9. You don’t notice until you dim the lights, but in addition to filling the hands, lume lines each of the dial’s tracks. It’s a cool effect and probably the biggest modern take on a classic detail of the Disco Volante.
Founded in 1874 in the small Swiss village of La Côte-aux-Fees, Piaget’s history is defined by one key date – 1957 – which marks a kind of Before-and-After in Piaget’s history. This was when the house introduced its ultra-thin 9P hand wound mechanical movement, a caliber that would revolutionize both the brand and the watch industry itself.
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Hamilton put the H-50 movement to use in this model, lending a better-than-average 80-hour power reserve, the same that’s found in the Khaki Field. Part of what makes the Khaki Field such a success is a generous power reserve and a robust movement. The H-50 is based on the ETA 2801-2.
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A typical Valjoux 88 has a basic level of finishing. Louis Moinet has rectified this with rose gold plating and fine engravings throughout the movement. The inspiration for the motif is lace, and the detail work looks intricate.
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Logan Baker examines the pros, cons, and best uses for watch straps ranging from rubber and nylon to metal and more in this informative and useful guide. Be sure to check out his take on alternative leathers, including naturally water-resistant vegan pineapple « leather. »
For a fair and reliable service or battery change head to Tic Toc Man in Hatton Garden. If you need some heavier duty restoration work, try Steven Hale Watch Restoration, pricey but a reliable name in the game.
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All of Mr. Isogai’s collection is in excellent condition, but this one’s among the best. It’s all original and in mint condition, with the original expansion rivet bracelet, crown, and crystal. Of course, it’s scratched from age, but the case does not appear to have been polished, and the dial is in excellent condition, too.
I snapped a couple of photos and sent an email to a man named Al Jenskey of Archer Watches, asking if he might be interested in restoring my father’s Gruen to proper wearable condition. I had met Al at my first ever Timezone get-together in Toronto and he was something of a legend among those looking to restore seriously unloved watches, so I was delighted when he agreed to a relatively straightforward overhaul of the graduation Gruen.
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The current record for both a Royal Oak and an Audemars Piguet at auction stands at $5.2 million, a figure achieved last spring when AP auctioned off a one-of-a-kind version of its Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Flying Tourbillon for charity. As the final lot in Friday’s auction, the Lagerfeld lot will also come after another potential record-breaking watch is auctioned off, the A2, the second Royal Oak ever built, which we’ll be taking a closer look at tomorrow.
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Caliber: Automatic HUB9013 Functions: Power reserve and skeletonized tourbillonPower Reserve: 48 hours (minimum)Winding: AutomaticFrequency: 3 Hertz (21,600 bph)Jewels: 66Additional Details: The caliber and dial have been fused such that you read time directly from the movement. It’s insane, read the article above for more.
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It was a primarily younger, male clientele that had to have it now, and they couldn’t care less about the tradition, Reardon says. « It was money, power, immediacy. That theme permeated over the past 10 years, where if you want a Nautilus, you’re going to get one, no matter the cost. »
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I am sure you don’t want a summary of all the technical details of this Grendizer watch because, apart from the styling, it is a 40mm PRX Powermatic 80 model you have been reading about on Fratello for quite a while now.
Dave is a truly brilliant, well-read, articulate man. Every time I brought up a new subject, Dave had already read about it and would send off links to engineering or scientific papers for me to read. He has kept me on my toes. Dave is a true explorer.
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Finally, Voutilainen just shared a third version (the second publicly announced) of the KV20i with a « Cherry » color option and titanium case. I don’t wear much red, so the blue does much more for me, but yet again, there’s the added benefit of more guilloche on the rear between the external track and a closed small seconds subdial with guilloche as well.
Looking at this watch, you may very well think nothing has changed. In many ways, it hasn’t. While Rolex hasn’t directly specified this, the case proportions look to be slimmed down considerably, with thinner lugs. This wouldn’t be a surprising change, as we just saw the brand do something similar with last year’s Submariner.
Also, while the uni-directional bezel is appropriately classic in aesthetics, it’s a bit spongy in its clickiness, and in classic Seiko-style, I can’t quite tell if the bezel is slightly out of alignment or if the curved sapphire crystal was playing tricks on me. In all fairness, it’s likely the latter and all of the above are worth overlooking for all the positives of the watch.
There is a highly detailed series of learning modules that equip would-be scuba divers with the knowledge to then get in the water with scuba tanks strapped to their backs and masks that make them sound like Darth Vader.
And on a bracelet for brownie points. This is an under-appreciated little 31mm nugget and it’s the perfect dress watch size for those of us who prefer things on the smaller side of the watch diameter scale. I know everything looks good on Cate Blanchett, but this would look really good on her.
An eBay seller based out of San Clemente, California has this watch listed in an auction that ends on Saturday evening. At the time of publishing, the high bid stands at $818. Additional photos and details can be found here.